Comment: Greengrocers showing shoots of growth
Think of greengrocers and images of old-school stores and market stalls spring to mind, which have largely been usurped over the years by the major supermarkets, but there are shoots of growth in the category.
Cycling across a bright North London at the weekend to an always sunny St John’s Wood brought me to the esteemed Panzer’s store. It has the words ‘Greengrocer’ proudly emblazoned across its shining new facia, which reflects a major nine-month refurbishment of the 80-year-old shop. It remains very much a store selling an array of fresh produce and deli items but it has been rejuvenated by the addition of further in-store services.
A coffee bar, in-house pizza, and rotisserie chicken offering along with an extensive outdoor covered terrace brings a consume-on-premises proposition to the mix and aligns the store with the best New York delis on which it is modelled. It’s very easy to spend lots of money on this unashamedly upmarket offering – both because it is pricey and there is a high temptation factor.
It is a similar story at Bayley & Sage that is about to open its 12th store in London, in leafy Hampstead, where it will no doubt sit very well as it will find the affluent audience to which the offer is absolutely aimed. After opening her first store in Wimbledon Village in 1997 Jennie Allen has focused firmly on providing high quality produce with the whole business underpinned by provenance.
Never Miss a Retail Update!Such is the demand for the products that Bayley & Sage has just begun to offer its goods via Deliveroo. There are undoubtedly more stores on the agenda as I can see the company receiving many requests for it to open new units in other areas of the capital.
This is all well and good for the rich denizens of London’s most affluent urban villages but what about the more cash-strapped bulk of the country? It would be wrong to believe an appetite for quality fresh produce from traditional greengrocers – along with their packaged goods – is the exclusive domain of the wealthy. There is an aspiration for better goods across all demographics. The owner of Panzer’s knows this as he also operates three slightly less high-end All Greens greengrocers in North and West London.
As UPF (Ultra Processed Foods) continue to grab increased column inches in justified scare stories and reports of growing levels of childhood obesity should worry the whole nation it is hoped that there is a gradual shift to a greater consumption of fresh produce. While the major supermarkets are clearly supplying the overwhelming volume of fresh grocery items they have increasingly vacated the educational space around food.
They are stripping out the last of the remaining food counters from their stores, while the cafes are also being pulled, and self-service checkouts continue to replace manned tills, which makes the typical supermarket bereft of any on-site food knowledge.
The independent greengrocers can play an important role here in helping educate shoppers about the goods on offer. Yes, the likes of Panzer’s and Bayley & Sage are expensive exemplars but if all consumers have the desire and aspiration for better fresh goods then there is hope that the trends we are seeing at the top of the market will to some extent trickle down into the mainstream.
