Conversation with … Phoebe Cowley
Reinventing the creative career in retail photography.
“I want AI to do my dishes and wash my sheets, not write my books or create my art for me”.
With social media, AI, and fast fashion reshaping the creative landscape, building a meaningful career in photography is no easy feat. For Phoebe Cowley, the journey has been both challenging and rewarding. As one of the early adopters of film photography before its resurgence, she has carved out a distinctive place in an increasingly digital industry.
From working for free to building a portfolio featuring magazine covers and brand campaigns, Phoebe has navigated the freelance world with grit, creativity, and a clear passion for her craft. Her thoughtful approach to storytelling and authenticity has made her a sought-after name in fashion and retail photography.
Now, seven years into her career, Phoebe reflects on what it takes to succeed in this competitive industry. She shares her experiences balancing artistic ambition with commercial realities, her thoughts on photography’s evolution in the e-commerce age, and advice for aspiring creatives looking to follow in her footsteps.
A conversation with… Phoebe Cowley
Never Miss a Retail Update!
What inspired you to pursue a career in photography?
I’ve always been creative. My mum is an artist, so I grew up around that kind of energy—outlandish clothes, bold ideas. I started shooting for free, doing test shoots for models and agencies, and I realised I loved working with people. It didn’t feel like work. At first, I didn’t even know photography could be a career, let alone pay the bills, but over time, I found my way into fashion and portraiture.
What were those early years like?
Hard! I worked for free for over two years, shooting for magazines and doing test shoots. I was lucky to live with my parents, so I didn’t have to worry about rent, but it was still a grind. I went to every fashion event I could, met people, and built my portfolio piece by piece. You really have to be resilient and willing to do the hard yards – there are no shortcut!
With e-commerce dominating retail and driving an endless demand for product photography and content, how does it play a role in your work?
E-commerce shoots are bread-and-butter jobs for many photographers. They’re not glamorous—sometimes you’re photographing hundreds of items in a day, either on models or as flatlays. It’s repetitive, but it pays the bills. The challenge is balancing those jobs with the more creative work that fuels your passion.
Film photography seems to be a big part of your style. Why is that?
Film has a quality that digital just can’t replicate. I bought my first film camera about five years ago, just as film was making a comeback, and it became my baby. Shooting on film feels special—every shot is intentional. It’s expensive now, though. When I started, a box of rolls cost £30; now it’s over £100. But when I can, I push to shoot on film because the results are worth it, and clients often love the outcome.
You’ve mentioned that storytelling is a big part of your photography. How do you bring that into your work, especially in fashion?
Storytelling is at the heart of what I do. Whether it’s photographing a model, someone I know personally, or even a stranger, I aim to capture their essence—to tell a story through the image. Fashion is such a powerful medium for that because it’s more than just clothes—it’s about identity, culture, and expression.
Take sustainability in fashion, for example. It naturally lends itself to storytelling. For these brands, there’s always a narrative behind the pieces—where they came from, how they were transformed, and the message they’re trying to convey. It’s incredibly rewarding to capture that kind of depth in an image, where the clothing isn’t just a product but part of a bigger story.
Instagram is such a huge part of creative careers these days. How do you handle the pressure to stay visible and active online?
Instagram is a double-edged sword. It’s an amazing platform to showcase your work and connect with brands, but it’s exhausting. There’s constant pressure to stay visible. I curate my Instagram differently from my website—my website is for big brands, while my Instagram is more casual and reflects my personality. But honestly, I delete Instagram from my phone every few months just to take a break.
Do you think AI is killing creativity, or does it have a place in photography?
It’s a tricky one. On the one hand, AI is incredible – it can do things we’d never have imagined a few years ago. But on the other hand, it’s taking over jobs that should remain human. I want AI to do my dishes and wash my sheets, not write my books or create my art for me.
In photography, it’s already becoming a challenge. You can ask an AI tool to generate a model wearing Vivienne Westwood designs, and it’ll spit out a whole editorial that looks professional. It’s scary how good it is. But what AI can’t replicate is the human process…the creativity, the emotion – and that flow state you get into when you’re really immersed in creating something. That’s such a rare, beautiful thing, and I’d hate for it to disappear.
I think AI might have its place, but it shouldn’t replace the artist. Hopefully, we’ll find a balance—at least in my generation.
What advice would you give to someone starting out in photography?
Be prepared to work for free and make sacrifices in the early years. Surround yourself with creative people, go to events, and put yourself out there. It’s a tough road, but if you’re passionate and resilient, it gets better. Also, don’t undervalue your work. Once you start giving away your time for free, it’s hard to change that perception.
So, what’s the dream?
I’d love to work with more established brands and do more international jobs. I had an incredible experience shooting in New York last year, and I’d love to do more of that. Ultimately, I want to keep creating work that feels meaningful and fun—projects where I have creative freedom and can tell real stories through my lens.
You can check out Phoebe’s portfolio here.
Phoebe’s journey is a testament to the power of perseverance and passion in a very competitive industry. For anyone considering a career in photography, her story offers a glimpse of the challenges and rewards of turning creativity into a profession. As the world of retail and fashion evolves, photographers like Phoebe remind us that artistry and storytelling remain at the heart of great visual content.
