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The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion can shift from one week to the next by offering ultra-cheap and trendy clothing as quickly as possible. Due to this fleeting nature of… View Article

COMMENTARY

The Environmental Impact of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion can shift from one week to the next by offering ultra-cheap and trendy clothing as quickly as possible. Due to this fleeting nature of fashion trends, the fast fashion industry has experienced a boom. But have you ever considered the environmental impact of fast fashion?

Brands now have the power to design, produce, and fly in collections in a matter of weeks, all so consumers can have fast fashion immediately. This is a sad reality because the damage fast fashion causes to the environment hides behind the deceptive facade of affordability and convenience.

In this blog, we are going to dig into fast fashion and its impact on the environment. We’ll look into whether fast fashion can be sustainable, explore the best sustainable practices in retail, and highlight some of the actions by brands that are helping lessen their ecological impact.

While sustainable fashion has become increasingly imperative, especially as the industry comes under scrutiny, such as the new inquiry that put fast fashion under the spotlight in 2018, it is unlikely that changes can be made to cater to what the brands want and what consumers have suddenly come to expect.

What is fast fashion?

Fast fashion is the practice of rapidly translating high fashion design trends into low-priced garments and accessories made by mass-market retailers.

Since production is quick and prices are kept low, retailers pass savings onto you by using cheap materials, typically synthetics such as polyester. The method enables brands to launch fresh assortments multiple times a season, or even weekly, ensuring consumers always have access to the latest trends.

Consumers may swoon over low-priced apparel, but the planet bears the true cost. The quick fashion industry’s production cycles are set and frequently quite brief. They necessitate the selection of the most cost-effective material option, which results in increased water consumption, waste, carbon emissions, and other environmental impacts. These clothes are made from synthetic fibres, which contribute to pollution from the dyes used to colour them and, ultimately, the waste that they result in.

Fast fashion plays to its advantage by capitalising on low production costs, quick turnover, and the high desirability of novelty. Generally, younger generations turn to fast fashion largely due to its bulk of well-priced styles arriving every few weeks. However, rampant consumption of this resource takes quite a toll on the environment.

What is the environmental impact of fast fashion retail?

Quick fashion comes at a huge cost to Mother Earth. Some studies suggest that 20 new articles of clothing are made every year for each person, and we purchase 60% more clothes now than we did just at the start of this millennium. In addition, we are wearing these garments less and throwing them away faster, further multiplying emissions from production.

Below are some of the worst effects fast fashion has on the environment:

Carbon footprint

The textiles of fast fashion represent 10% of global carbon emissions. Estimated textile production generates 1.2 billion tons of CO2 per year, more than industrial flights and shipping together. There are a number of contributing factors, but one of the largest is polyester, a synthetic fabric that relies heavily on energy consumption in the fast fashion industry.

On top of that, the cycle of producing cheap, poor quality clothing that’s quickly discarded adds to this carbon footprint and greenhouse gas emissions, as brands are constantly churning out new products to keep up with demand. In addition, to keep prices low, the vast majority of brands outsource the production process in countries like China, where manufacturing plants are powered by coal and have a larger carbon footprint than textiles made in Europe.

Waste generation

Our throw-away style attitude toward fashion and our tonnes of textile overproduction are causing massive levels of textile waste. Clothing production globally has doubled in the past 20 years, yet we’re wearing each item much less. So much so that millions of tonnes of clothing waste are thrown into the waste every year, often ending up in landfills.

To make it all the worse, most of these apparels are made from synthetic materials like polyester which are not biodegradable. This not only sets fast fashion for landfills, but it is also a culprit in microplastic pollution—the tiny synthetic fibres that shed off when you wash your clothes make their way into the ocean and water systems.

Water consumption

Textile production, especially of cotton, is water intensive. It requires approximately 10,000 litres of water to yield a single kilogramme or a T-shirt made out of cotton. Due to the demand and pace at which it is produced, there is a huge stress on global water resources (especially those under extreme water scarcity).

In addition, the dyes used in fabrics can cause water pollution due to toxic chemicals leaching into nearby water. According to the World Bank, the textile sector accounts for about 20% of industrial water pollution globally.

Oil usage 

Again, there are also hidden environmental costs to fast fashion turning to synthetic materials like polyester. It is estimated that the production of polyester needs 342 million barrels of oil annually. All these synthetic fabrics can neither decay nor disintegrate and hence remain in the environment to infuse a massive amount of pollution over time. The materials in fast fashion are cheap, and our clothes wear out faster, making us buy more often, which adds up to landfills.

Chemical pollution

Another significant environmental problem is the chemicals used in the production of fast fashion garments. These release toxic substances like dyes and textile treatments into the soil and water systems, destroying entire ecosystems. The same chemicals may also have adverse health effects on workers in the manufacturing process, typically working in poorly regulated environments and often in developing countries.

Soil and water pollution

One of the major issues with fast fashion is the pollution that happens from the get-go, all the way back to growing raw materials. Cotton is often planted repeatedly on the same exhausted soil, requiring higher and higher inputs of chemical fertilisers and biocides—pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides—which in turn poison the local water supply. The pollution can also have long-lasting effects on the environment as well as the people who depend on these resources.

Deforestation

Fast fashion, like so many other industries, has contributed to deforestation. Over time, as demand for natural fibres such as cotton grows, large swathes of land will be cleared to open up spaces for the cultivation of cotton. Forests are cleared to make room for cotton, which increases soil degradation and the loss of crucial ecosystems, adding another layer of contributions to the already concerning global environment.

How can Fast Fashion be sustainable?

Can we have sustainable fast fashion? The industry is not shy of difficulties environmentally, but there are measures being taken to get better in this regard. In the UK and around the world, attempts to make fast fashion more sustainable are on the rise, but big strides are yet to be made.

The process of fast fashion is exposed in the ground-breaking work outlined by The United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) that has unlocked a raft of initiatives, perhaps most importantly, shedding light on the waste and environmental degradation triggered by our shopping habits.

Fashion Revolution Week and other such events are examples of how consumers all over the globe are taking action by asking brands about their production processes, and this demand for transparency in the industry will only continue to grow. Around the world, such movements are trying to both teach the buyer and encourage sellers to do better, from slashing waste to curbing carbon emissions.

Similarly, in the UK there is also a focus on fostering resiliency against fast fashion. Policy interventions including the Sustainability Due Diligence Directive are vital to ensure environmental sustainability in the UK fashion sector, according to research from LSE’s Grantham Research Institute. This could involve pushing brands to use sustainable materials, producing zero waste and moving towards a circular economy model where resources are recycled or reused. Proposed UK fast fashion legislation would require clothing companies to deal with more environmental impact than they actually do.

Fast fashion companies need business models that employ better quality of the materials they use to make clothes. They must eventually reduce overproduction by making items that are durable and long-lasting, and keep up with the latest sustainability trends in retail.

Brands can be more sustainable by supporting events focused on sustainability in retail and partaking in government-backed initiatives within the UK and further afield. Sustainable fashion has a long way to go still; through growing awareness and existing frameworks, things can only improve with time.

Stuart Trevor’s Approach

An excellent example of sustainable fashion in action is Stuart Trevor, the founder of AllSaints, who has now redefined his approach to fashion through his namesake brand, STUART TREVOR. Embracing the concept of sustainability, Stuart Trevor’s brand is unique in that it doesn’t produce any new clothes. Instead, it focuses on upcycling and customising vintage pieces, thereby giving a second life to garments that might otherwise be discarded.

This approach stems from his personal experience during lockdown when he began upcycling garments with his daughter, sparking the idea of building a brand based on vintage and existing stock. By repurposing clothing, he significantly reduces the carbon footprint and waste associated with traditional fashion production.

STUART TREVOR is also actively participating in events like THE GOOD CLOTHES SHOW, held today at the NEC Birmingham from 20th to 22nd September, an event dedicated to sustainable fashion practices. It’s a platform that not only promotes ethical shopping but also offers swapping and customising opportunities, demonstrating how fashion can be more responsible and innovative.

 

For fast fashion brands seeking to become more sustainable, here are some best practices to incorporate in your strategy.

Adopting sustainable materials

The most sustainable action that fast fashion brands can take is to make the switch to more environmentally friendly materials. For example, organic cotton requires significantly less water and pesticides than conventional cotton. In addition, recycled fabrics—such as those made from post-consumer plastic bottles—can reduce the use of virgin materials.

We are already seeing initiatives led by some brands like H&M and Adidas that feature visible yet low-impact use of sustainable materials (not to mention actual market demand for this traceability across the supply chain), but holistic change within the industry is still lacking.

Circular fashion initiatives

One of the more promising methods to make fast fashion sustainable is to implement a circular fashion programme. It advocates for the recycling and reuse of clothing to reduce waste. A few brands are trying out take-back programmes to let customers drop off their used clothes for recycling or resale.

Waste reduction strategies

Fast fashion companies can play their part in addressing the industry waste issue by using waste reduction practices. This involves designing clothing that lasts, with better materials, to reduce the number of garments consumers buy and embrace circular economy models.

Sustainable retail packaging

An important improvement relates to sustainable retail packaging. Brands have the option of rolling out recyclable, eco-friendly, or even compostable formats that will help lower their environmental footprint over time. By doing this, you reduce single-use plastic and show your customers that you are serious about sustainability.

Careful supplier selection

Another way to reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion is to make a more thorough selection of suppliers. Companies can cooperate only with those who have proven their pursuit of eco-friendly and ethical production.

Avoid destroying unsold items

One of the less acceptable choices in fast fashion is the disposal of items that did not sell. Brands need to discourage clothing from being destroyed in landfills. This can be achieved through donation or resale.

Fast Fashion brands and sustainability

Several fast fashion brands are starting to recognise the need for more sustainable practices, following the example set by sustainable brands.

Let’s look into today’s retail industry and companies that are starting to do things right.

  • H&M: H&M launched a conscious collection in which they have been incorporating sustainable materials such as organic cotton and recycled polyester. They even offer a collection system for garments where the public can easily bring their used textiles at H&M stores so they can be re-worn, re-used or recycled.
  • Adidas: By 2024, Adidas will use only recycled polyester across all its products. It also kicked off a line of completely recyclable shoes called Loop, that can be returned and remade into new footwear.
  • M&S (Marks & Spencer): M&S is focussing on responsible sourcing and sustainable materials, including cotton sourced through the Better Cotton Initiative.
  • Nike: Nike also leads in terms of circular design practices and has developed a “Move to Zero” campaign that commits the company to achieve zero waste and zero carbon emissions throughout its supply chain.

Vestiaire Collective: In November 2022, the leading resale platform Vestiaire Collective announced a ban on selling fast fashion items. The initiative is designed to curtail the environmentally harmful processes of fast fashion. Vestiaire Collective promotes a circular fashion culture and responsible consumption by offering preowned luxury and upscale goods. In October 2023, even a luxury brand like Burberry teamed up with Vestiaire Collective to offer customers a new way to trade in their pre-loved Burberry items.

Final thoughts

Fast fashion has an epic environmental footprint, and an equally huge potential for change in the industry. Fast fashion brands can reduce their impact by using sustainable materials, applying circular fashion schemes, embracing e-commerce sustainability, and waste reduction.

However, widespread change requires both consumer education and active participation in responsible purchasing habits.

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